Ever since I can remember, I have always wanted to travel to Nepal. To this day I do not know why the country has fascinated me so, nor why I have been so compelled to see it for myself.
In July 2011, I saw.
Kathmandu - Motorcycles, Monsoons and Mayhem
I arrived at a dark and eerily quiet Tribhuvan Airport in Kathmandu, alone but excited at the prospect of four weeks in Nepal. As soon as I stepped out of the arrivals lounge grasping my trusty phrase and guide book I was bombarded by men asking to carry my bags or if I wanted a taxi. I fought my way through and found the contact who was meeting me. From the car back to the house where I was staying, I could already begin to see what Kathmandu had to offer, but my 23 hour journey was taking its toll and I was ready for a long sleep.
The next day I woke up early, ready to see the new world I had thrown myself into. Breakfast was the staple meal of Dhal Bhat (consisting of rice, lentil soup, vegetables and pickle) and I knew I would have to prepare myself for a lot more of it during my stay. Sightseeing was the order of the day and I travelled into the city to visit the famous Buddhist Bhouda Stupa and the Hindu cremation temple, Pashupatinath. At Pashupatinath I witnessed public cremation rituals which, as an agnostic westerner, was very strange indeed. It felt wrong to watch such an event as a passer by and I could not help but move away from it after a time.
The city itself was teeming with life of every kind. Cows wandered the street, occasionally settling down for a nap in the middle of busy roads, and chickens and dogs roamed the pavements. The traffic in Kathmandu was horrendous and I was continuously amazed at how the thousands of motorcycles, cars and trucks managed to avoid the animals. As I was told countless times, there are no rules for the road in Nepal - "everyone expects the random, and so there are no accidents". Crossing a road as a pedestrian, on the other hand, may have been one of the most terrifying experiences of my life. The British Highway Code states to look both ways before crossing a street, whereas in Nepal you take your life in your hands and just walk.
In Thamel, a popular tourist area of Kathmandu, every second building was a shop selling curios and artefacts for pennies, and the other was a cafe of some kind. The narrow streets were filled with people and the monsoon downpours that occurred each day made the city humid and the ground muddy. The city never stops to slow down and this easily tired me out. Thankfully I did not stay in Kathmandu for long.
Godawari - A Peaceful Haven in the Foothills of the Kathmandu Valley
My main purpose of the trip to Nepal was volunteer teaching. My placement was in a tiny village called Godawari, teaching the young Buddhist monks basic English at the local monastery. The village (or gau in Nepali) was tranquil and a far cry from the mayhem of Kathmandu. The people I encountered in Godawari were welcoming and friendly and I soon felt right at home. As for the little monks - they were some of the most amazing boys I have ever met. After speaking to Serab, an older monk at the monastery, it was brought to my attention that the boys' families had given them to the monastery to be trained up as monks. The youngest boy, Dechen, was a mere 8 years old.
Nestled between lush green mountains, Godawari lies peaceful and untouched by the bustling city found only half an hour down the road. The National Botanical Gardens can be found here as well, and each weekend hundreds of people travel from Kathmandu up to Godawari to relax amongst the flowers and plants. The village is also famous for the sacred Hindu Kunda (spring) that is found just behind the Buddhist monastery. The spring is a site of pilgrimage, and every 12 years Hindu people must make the journey to the Kunda to bathe in the holy waters.
The rooftop cafes in Godawari were my usual haunt, and I could often be found with a book, and some delicious local food in front of me. MoMo were my particular favourite - small steamed or fried dumplings (in the same vain as Gyoza or Dim Sum) containing either vegetables, chicken or buffalo meat. Another favourite meal was buffalo chow mein, the flavoursome buffalo meat mixed with the spices and noodles of the chow mein was cause for celebration to me. Sometimes I would explore a bit further and get on a 'Micro bus' to the southernmost part of Kathmandu, the market district of Lagankel. Fresh fruit, sweets, clothes and more is available from the market here, and just a short walk from the bus park is the ancient city of Patan. I came across this mystical part of the city by accident one day, while wandering the streets of Lagankel. The towering pagodas of the Hindu temples made me stop in my tracks just to appreciate their splendour.
Chitwan - Elephants in the Terai
At the end of my stay in Nepal, I organised a short trip to the south of the country, the flat plains of the Terai. Chitwan National Park is situated here and I traveled by Tourist bus (along some frankly pretty frightening mountain roads) to get to the resort I was staying at. Located in the beautiful village of Sauraha, Jungle Adventure World Resort was like taking a holiday within a holiday. The small huts that guests stayed in were quaint and very clean, and the food provided by the resort was delicious. The wide river that sweeps through Chitwan is just in front of the resort, and the river front bar was the ideal place for a wind down.
My activities for the day I spent in Chitwan included a visit to the Elephant Breeding Centre, where I saw the rare twin elephants that are housed there, and had a 2 month old baby wrap its soft little trunk around my hand. Also included was a jungle walk (unfortunately occurring in the heaviest rain I have ever known) and finally an Elephant-back Jungle Safari. The elephants were the highlight of my stay in Nepal, and to say thank you to the rather large elephant that had taken us through the Jungle, my friends and I bought some bananas to feed to it.
The one downside, for me, with the Chitwan visit was that I came away from the resort with a grand total of 31 mosquito bites on my legs. This did not make for an enjoyable two days back in Kathmandu before flying home. I recommend to anyone travelling to Chitwan or the Terai plains to take anti-malarial medication (just in case) and to bathe in insect repellent.
Nepal - Is it Really Worth Seeing?
Nepal is one of the most incredible countries I have ever been to. The landscape is awe-inspiring, and beautiful and the people are genuine and welcoming to all. The culture shock alone is what I feel people must experience at least once. I was there for four weeks and that was not nearly long enough. While I was there to volunteer, it is enough just to go there on holiday - your money would help the local economy and the Nepalese people would be so grateful for it. This wonderful country needs to be seen! Travel to Nepal and be involved in the rich culture. You will not be disappointed.
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